Toulois

Once the powerful seat of the bishop, today a visual highlight on the bow of the Moselle.

Stately middle-class houses and narrow alleyways are hallmarks of this small but lively town.

The grand cathedral of Saint Étienne harkens back to an age when Toul, together with the neighbouring dioceses of Metz and Verdun, was part of the Archbishopric of Trier.

The former importance of the 16,000-resident community is still visible today in the walls and moats encircling the old city.

The city's defences were planned by military master builder Vauban, coming amidst splendid nature that even well into the 19th century was considered among the most important of wine regions.

Its downfall began with the phylloxera plague that wiped out nearly the entire existing rootstock. But time has brought recovery.

The winegrowing region now extends across eight villages in which the “Vin gris”, a speciality of the Côtes de Toul, can be tasted. Such as in Bruley with its ancient vaulted cellars.

Lucey is also worth the trip. It can claim no historic wine cellars, as grapes grown here are brought directly at harvest to the cellar of the bishop's seat in Toul, now the city hall.

There is however the “Maison de la Polyculture”, a winemaking museum.